Why Kazakhstan? Every time I’ve traveled outside of Europe, people always ask me: “But… why there?” And you know what? I realized that question usually comes from the type of people who don’t even bother going to the next town over and whose only hobby is binge-watching Netflix.
Proof? I couldn’t even find souvenirs! I spent an entire working day searching for postcards, magnets, anything… and came back empty-handed. If that’s not authenticity, I don’t know what is.
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| Kaz Munay Gas building in Lovers' Park Astana |
Everyone speaks Russian, and the little hope I had that someone might know English quickly vanished. Luckily, I can fumble my way through Russian basics, and Google Translate voice function became my best friend in sticky moments. Trust me, if you want to make it work — you will.
I spent 8 days in Kazakhstan. The first 2 were in the capital, Astana, where I got mercilessly soaked by rain, and then I hopped on a plane to Almaty (because hey, 1,200 km is no joke). From there, I squeezed in a quick 2-day trip to Kolsai Lake and Charyn Canyon.
Kazakhstan is the 9th largest country in the world, and I obviously just scratched the surface — even though I was hitting at least 20,000 steps a day. Still, I think I got a pretty solid first impression and visited some of the coolest spots.
Public transport? Surprisingly great. Traffic? Chaotic (but hey, these are massive cities). The food? Hmm… not my favorite — too greasy and heavy for my taste. Thankfully, there were plenty of alternatives, so I didn’t starve.
Coffee lovers, beware: this is NOT your paradise. Honestly, the coffee was pretty bad. Unless Starbucks counts, but even there, I wasn’t impressed. On the flip side, if you ever wanted to quit coffee — Kazakhstan is the place to do it!
In stores, I spotted horse and camel milk (yep, really). I didn’t even consider trying it. And in Almaty’s bazaar, there’s a whole section selling horse meat and sausages. Hard pass.
What I did fall in love with, though, were the gorgeous Soviet-era mosaics scattered across both cities. Brutalist architecture at its finest — bold, massive, unapologetic.
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The locals? Relaxed, easygoing, and honestly kind of carefree. I apparently blended in well enough that people thought I was Russian — probably why no one gave me the “foreigner” stare.
Streets were impressively clean. I constantly saw people sweeping leaves or hosing down main roads at sunrise. And more than once, some sweet grandma or grandpa stopped me to ask (in Russian!) about bus times, prices of bread, or even just the time.
Another fun detail: Kazakhstan is seriously ahead with electric cars. Lots of Hyundais, BYDs, KIAs — but I also spotted some old German classics from the ’80s, plus the unavoidable Lada.
And this cracked me up: in so many streets and parks, they have those punching bag arcade machines that measure the strength of your hit — even mini versions for kids. No wonder Kazakhstan shines in martial arts at the Olympics!
Astana
My hotel was about 4 km from the main attractions, which meant plenty of walking (one way!). Perfect excuse to get lost in random neighborhoods and really get a feel for the city.
Astana is huge, and the buildings are even bigger. Construction is everywhere — some spots were closed off for renovations, so I couldn’t see everything.
I stayed on the right side of the river, in the old town, right above the central park (lovely for walks and chilling). That’s where you’ll find the brutalist Soviet blocks and mosaics (though fewer than in Almaty). Cross to the left bank, though, and boom — you’re in futuristic glass-and-steel land.
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| Astana Lovers' Park |
Pro tip: Go in the late afternoon for the “Golden Hour.” The sunlight turns those shiny skyscrapers into glowing giants — it’s stunning. Start at the yurt-shaped Khan Shatyr Mall (yep, the biggest tent in the world, according to National Geographic), head to Lovers Park, then walk straight to the iconic 97-meter-high Baiterek Tower. Go up to the top — ideally at night — and you’ll get panoramic city views that are worth every step.
Other highlights: the massive Grand Mosque (the biggest in Central Asia, closer to the airport) and the Orthodox Cathedral of the Dormition, filled with golden saint icons.
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| Astana - Catedrala Adormirea Maicii Domnului |
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| Astana - Grand Mosque |
But honestly? It rained nonstop both days I was there. Cold, windy, miserable. I did my best not to catch a cold, but I know I missed out on a lot — like the public baths, where I could have tried the classic “massage + beating with dry walnut leaves” treatment (don’t laugh, it’s tradition!).
Still, I managed to track down a few gorgeous Soviet mosaics — one on the post office, another at the train station. Astana sits in the steppe, flat as far as the eye can see. I don’t even want to imagine how brutal the winters get. For me, two days were enough — I’m a mountains-over-plains type of traveler, and I was itching to head south to the Tian Shan range.
Almaty
Now THIS city won me over. The starting point of everything in Almaty is the legendary Kazakhstan Hotel — a giant brutalist block sitting at the foot of Kok-Tobe hill.
From there, you can easily walk to Panfilov Park, home to the beautiful wooden Ascension Cathedral. Across the street is the famous Arasan bathhouse (if you’re into steamy cultural experiences), and just 10 minutes away is the Green Bazaar, where you can find literally everything that was once alive. Bazaars, by the way, are the beating heart of a city — skip them, and you’ve missed the soul.
Don’t miss Shevchenko Street — packed with mosaics, restaurants, cafés, schools, street food… basically life happening all at once.
Botanical Garden? Honestly, you can skip it. The whole city is like one giant park anyway. Seriously, I’ve never seen a greener city — tree-lined streets everywhere, with shade that makes walking a joy.
History buffs, check out Bogenbai Batyr Street for tsarist-era architecture. Nature lovers, head for the mountains: Medeu in Ile-Alatau National Park is the gateway to some serious hiking trails (but unless you’re experienced, go with a local agency — the climbs go above 2,500 meters).
Another must is Shymbulak ski resort. A cable car whisks you up to 2,550 m, and if you’re brave, you can hike steeply to a 3,200 m mountain pass for sweeping views of the Tian Shan. From there, you can spot peaks like Nursultan (4,376 m), glaciers, and even Kazakhstan’s highest mountain, Talgar (4,979 m).
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Warning: altitude sickness is real. I got hit by it up there, even though I’m a regular hiker. But that’s a story for another blog post.
From Almaty, I joined a 2-day trip to Kolsai Lake, Kaindy Lake, and the canyons (Moon Canyon and Charyn Canyon). Tours usually cost $60–100, including transport, accommodation in the village of Saty, and meals. Honestly? Sleeping in Saty was one of the most peaceful nights of my life — clean air, no pollution, pure nature.
I went with a company called Join Me Asia and can recommend them. Just note that it’s a 6-hour drive from Almaty, and tours can get crowded (two big buses in my case). Luckily, the groups split up, so mine was just 10 people — and you’re free to wander off anyway. The best part? As a solo traveler, I finally got to chat with actual humans — in English!
Post-Trip Blues
Now, sitting at home just two days later, scrolling through photos, it already feels like a distant memory. Jet lag? Beaten. Post-travel depression? Alive and well. Add autumn creeping in, and yeah… the melancholy is real.
But hey — as they say, all good things must end. And maybe it’s time I start planning the next adventure.
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